“I didn’t choose to become vegan for health reasons. But I’m sixty-two, and I wake up every day full of energy, with a heart full of appreciation for this path, and a desire to serve others. In my mind there is no doubt that this choice provided the foundation for both my health and my outlook.’’ —Jan Brandenburg

Today, we’re featuring a vegan cookbook, albeit, one from a very unlikely place: Appalachia. In truth, vegans make up only 1 percent of the US population according to Gallup so meeting a vegan anywhere in this country is unlikely—but if you do, you probably won’t be surprised to know there’s nearly an eight in ten chance that person will be a woman.

Why do vegans skew so heavily women? Let these bullets point to some answers:

• Studies consistently show women to be more compassionate, especially when it comes to animals.

• Women are more likely to have pets, and far less likely to abuse them.

• Membership in animal rights groups runs 75 percent women.

• With human reproductive rights and body autonomy under threat in the US, women are more sensitive to the fact that raising animals for food requires female animals to be in a state of constant pregnancy. And, in cows and pigs, pregnancy is achieved through artificial (read forced) insemination.

• Some scholars go so far as to suggest that human oppression and misogyny is built on the oppression of animals over the past ten thousand years, a theory that seems intuitive to some women.

But we were talking about Appalachia and Jan Brandenburg’s The Modern Mountain Cookbook, which earned a starred review from Kristine Morris in Foreword’s January/February issue, and prompted the following interview.

In addition to Jan’s new cookbook, Kristine penned five reviews in the Women’s Issues feature in Jan/Feb (here’s a PDF). As always, you are welcome to a free digital subscription to Foreword by registering here.

Your delightful book, The Modern Mountain Cookbook, has taken traditional meat-heavy Appalachian cooking to a new, more contemporary level, translating traditional recipes into delicious vegan fare. So, let’s talk a bit about veganism. You wrote that your maternal grandmother thought veganism was a cult! Given this early input, when did you give up animal products, and what motivated your decision?

I became vegetarian in 1994 after watching a popular but dark movie that suddenly made my mind expand its definition of what it means to share the planet with all its inhabitants. The movie had nothing to do with diet, but it was the impetus for redefining how I wanted to live from that day forward. For me, that’s doing as much good, and as little harm, as I can. Granted, it’s a fairly imperfect scenario, but it remains my motivation every day that I am fortunate enough to be here.

From 1994 to 2006, I ate a mostly vegan diet but made the full transition in 2006. The more information that became available, the more I knew it was the right decision. I won’t say that veganism defines me, but it shapes the fabric of my day-to-day life in such a positive way. It has helped me truly understand how you can reach many people and learn about their many different perspectives through the very simple act of sharing food.

Although you earned a degree in pharmacy, you wrote that you’ve loved to cook since being given an Easy-Bake Oven as a child and imagining yourself as Barbie, “only better, because I could cook.” You navigated adolescence “armed with a spatula,” fell in love with the beauty of vegetables in 1995, and have been totally vegan since 2006. With traditional Appalachian cuisine giving place of honor to meat, how did you maintain your commitment to a vegan diet?

I am a lifelong vegetable-lover, so it wasn’t that difficult for me to make the transition away from meat being the focal point of every meal. However, it’s a fact that that the American diet is meat-centric, and I have always attempted to provide something tasty that meat-eaters felt comfortable with, especially for special occasions that included folks beyond my immediate family.

My personal motivation is to do no harm to animals. If I am serving a vegan meal to someone, it means they have been willing to forgo the non-vegan meal they might have had elsewhere. I want them to come away with a positive experience. These days there are many different meat substitutes available, and there are many differing opinions about them. At present my favorite substitution is a meatloaf made from Impossible Burger and filled with fresh vegetables and herbs, my homemade cornmeal breadcrumbs, and a spicy glaze. The best of both worlds!

You confess that your first soybean casserole almost caused a “family mutiny.” Not a very auspicious start! What are some tips and/or tricks you used to get your family on board with vegan foods?

None of us will forget that meal! It actually didn’t take long to get a few reliable meals in my repertoire that I knew would NOT be delivered back to me in a most unpleasant fashion by my sweet 5-year-old. Starting with a nice base of noodles or rice and learning the ins and outs of vegan versions of warm creamy sauces was key. Mac and Cheese, spaghetti, and Farmhouse Stew all became reliable favorites.

You mention Appalachia’s long history of living off the land, creating tasty meals from home-grown vegetables freshly picked from the garden, or cooked, canned, or dried, and stored to sustain families through long, cold winters. With the unpredictability of the weather these days, it seems like this would be a good practice for all of us. What are your thoughts around this, and how might you suggest people prepare for food shortages or inaccessibility due to social disruption or climate issues?

I suggest beans, beans, and more beans! Dried and canned beans are easy to store and last for a long time. They are rich in flavor and nutrition and adaptable to almost every type of meal. I love to cook them from scratch for lovely starchy broths, but I also keep every type of canned bean on hand for dips, to puree and thicken sauces, and even for meringue for cakes. I always grow my own cooking herbs, but I have some raised beds in my yard that are calling my name for a more extensive garden this spring.

For our readers who may be unfamiliar with Appalachian customs around food, would you please share what you most love about Appalachian cuisine and how it contributes to family, community, and celebration?

When I think of my regional cuisine, the word “warmth” comes to mind. It is comfort food at its finest. Cornbread, creamy garden vegetables, soups and stews, and warm baked loaves of pumpkin, rosemary, or strawberry bread somehow feed more than just our appetites. Gathering around our tables is not as common as it used to be, but my Appalachian spirit is strong. It pushes me to let myself focus on what it means to gather with and celebrate family and friends and allows concerns of how my house might look that day, or the possibility of a recipe disaster (it does happen!) to take a backseat.

In my circle, birthdays and holidays are met with fanfare and fun vegan menus. And yes, this is work, but it’s also the music that plays continually in my mind. When I look around and see people having fun, laughing, enjoying the food, and taking a break from life’s many responsibilities and demands, it is absolutely worth it.

They say that we all need roots and wings. My hope is that these traditions, while centered around food but in reality are so much more, will contribute to both.

What are the benefits you’ve experienced as a result of adopting veganism? Are there any drawbacks? If so, how do you compensate for them?

I didn’t choose to become vegan for health reasons. But I’m sixty-two, and I wake up every day full of energy, with a heart full of appreciation for this path, and a desire to serve others. In my mind there is no doubt that this choice provided the foundation for both my health and my outlook. Like many choices worth making, veganism isn’t always convenient. But I love a challenge, and have managed to not only survive, but thrive in my far-from-urban area. I pack my lunch, I locate and show appreciation for the places that provide vegan options, and I stay internally attuned to what my food choices mean for me, the animals, and the planet.

Based on your desire to create a cookbook filled with vegan recipes that, even without animal products, still say “home” to family and guests, you’ve made something that’s more than just a cookbook. Along with creative adaptations of traditional Appalachian recipes, your book is filled with chatty stories of family, friends, and home-grown adventures, giving an up-close-and-personal look at the heart of an Appalachian home. Please share a memory of a special time shared with loved ones over a healthful vegan meal.

I fully embrace a “the more the merrier” philosophy when it comes to family gatherings. Over the years, we’ve welcomed a steady stream of friends, girlfriends, ex-girlfriends, bands, and extended family to our table. For one Christmas gathering, we invited my nephew’s girlfriend’s family to attend. Stephanie relayed that her uncle from NYC would also be visiting. I said no problem, bring him along! I always provide a traditional meal for Thanksgiving, but Christmas dinners are a wild card. The uncle, who happened to be the CFO of the NYC Ballet at that time was, I’m sure, expecting some down-home fare. Instead, my son and I had opted to recreate that year’s entire Bon Appetit Christmas menu “a-la-vegan.” It was a doozie!

Most of us had never even seen the original version of these menu items, much less my vegan variants. It was surprisingly delicious, and the uncle left well-fed, if somewhat baffled. I was happy to see him return the following year. I don’t recall the follow-up menu, but feel sure it was less of a shock.

Each recipe in your book is accompanied by a story of Appalachian life, perhaps some history of the place, personal memories, information about the recipe, and/or fun facts, including that the history of “French Toast” goes all the way back to the ancient Romans! This has made the book both informative and fun. Readers will, I’m sure, feel as though they are sitting around the table with you, sharing stories as well as food. What do you most cherish about Appalachian customs and culture, and what might you like to see changed?

As our lifestyles have changed, fewer people seem to embrace family meals as central to our day-to-day experience. So, redefining what that tradition might look like is not as difficult as you would think. The basic act of both preparing and serving a meal is enough to spark a change. And it doesn’t matter if it’s beans and rice or an exotic and unfamiliar Bon Appetit menu. It is simply gathering with the people you love that underpins the tradition. For the little people in my life there is always a steady stream of chocolate chip cookies, rosemary bread, and “tiny cakes” coming from my kitchen. It is my hope that plant-based meals will become more common for everyone as we realize how much our choices impact all our fellow travelers and our global future.

How would you encourage a reluctant person to give vegetarian cuisine a try?

I think vegan desserts are the place to start when encouraging someone to give vegan food a try. Most people believe milk and eggs are essential to baking until they see proof otherwise. A chocolate chip cookie is pretty hard for anyone to turn down, and they will not be disappointed with the vegan version. It tends to be an eye-opener for skeptics.

I also encourage people to pick a type of cuisine they know they love, find a vegan cookbook that parallels their interest, and read through it. Most ingredients will be familiar, but they’ll be used in new and innovative ways. We have all heard of cashews, but maybe did not know that they can turn water and vegetable broth into a wonderful and versatile cream sauce. Just don’t be afraid to try something new. It’s how we grow, thrive, and feed the daily spark.

Can we hope for another book? If so, what is its topic?

Yes! I have recipes for a new book that I hope to begin soon. The tentative title is Over the Blue Moon: Plant-Based Menus for Celebrations Large and Small. Last year, my friends and I started a rotating happy hour with themes. We dressed accordingly, and planned menus around whatever the host or hostess had selected. It was so much fun! We had Game Day with Nachos and Wings; Camp Vegan with Not-Pigs in Blankets and S’mores Pie; and Fiesta Night with Tacos and Fried Ice Cream Pie. You get the idea. It made me invent quite a few new recipes and seemed like a good jumping-off point for a new book. Fingers crossed!

Kristine Morris
February 28, 2025

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