At first blush, owning a restaurant looks lucrative and exciting. What’s not to love about dishing out satisfying plates of food to appreciative guests, inventing new recipes in a kitchen full of passionate foodies, building a coveted cellar of wine, basking in the fame of glowing restaurant reviews?

But we know better. Talk to anyone in the biz and they’ll explain to you the hundreds of moving parts it takes to send a plain ol’ dinner salad out the kitchen door on an average night. The Grateful Dead were surely singing about a chef when they wrote, “I need a miracle everyday.”

Today’s guest, Emmanuel Laroche, is here to give us a peek, a sense of the magic and mayhem that happens on the other side of all those restaurant kitchen doors you’ve seen over the years. His Conversations Behind the Kitchen Door earned an amuse bouche of a review from Meg Nola and we quickly placed a to-go order for an interview.

What was the inspiration for your flavors unknown podcast and how did it lead to the writing of Conversations Behind the Kitchen Door?

My passion for food and the culinary arts began in my childhood in France. Growing up in a family where food was always present, both at home and while traveling, and in a country with a rich culinary heritage, instilled a deep interest in food in me.

My current job as a VP of marketing for a flavor company offered me the opportunity to moderate panel discussions with chefs from around the country. This led to the idea of creating the podcast flavors unknown, where I profile and highlight the work of notable chefs and restaurateurs and continue the conversation I had with them during the panel discussion. I also wanted to share stories and experiences related to food and cooking and learn more about the people behind the food we eat and how their background, culture, and upbringing impact their approach to food and cooking.

After four seasons of my podcast, and many tasting adventures across the country, I felt I had enough knowledge and content to write a book. Conversations Behind the Kitchen Door is the result of this journey and is my way to provide an answer to the teasing I received from French family and friends about the absence of culinary traditions in America.

The book is also a way to bring more listeners to my podcast and is linked to my passion for food and the desire to understand the people who produce it, transform it, celebrate it, and share their passion for food with others. The pandemic also provided me with the time to write the book.

Restaurants were hit hard by the pandemic, from the initial impact to the loss of customers, staff layoffs, masking regulations, financial stress, and, if even possible, the need to change from dine-in to delivery. Some places tried outdoor dining with varying success, but that often involved further complications. If such a major shutdown ever happens again, can restaurateurs be better prepared?

The COVID-19 pandemic greatly impacted the restaurant industry, with many establishments having to close their doors or pivot to takeout and delivery. However, chefs are known for their resilience, and many have now gained experience in diversifying their revenue streams by offering meal kits, catering, or online cooking classes. They have also learned how to build up their online presence and develop a strong takeout and delivery system.

A positive outcome of the pandemic is that chefs and restaurateurs focused on creating a loyal customer base and a sense of community around their restaurant, which can help sustain the business during difficult times. They have also become accustomed to implementing safety measures such as contactless payment, social distancing, and sanitizing protocols. All of this has given them the ability to respond much faster in case of another major shutdown.

Many chefs I talked to have also moved to a fast casual business model which is more suitable for responding to takeout and delivery orders. Despite this, as Chef Naomi Pomeroy mentioned in a conversation on the podcast flavors unknown, the restaurant business model is not a good one: “In general, if a business-minded person looked at our restaurant business model, they would all say that we should shut down. This is not a good business.” And this situation may not have changed even after the pandemic.

In the days before social media, a prominent food critic could make or break a restaurant. Nowadays, with Yelp and other outlets, a lackluster review from a critic can be minimized by the reviews of satisfied patrons. At the same time, a few negative Yelp reviews—which could result from one unexpectedly chaotic night or an overly demanding diner—can shadow a restaurant’s reputation. How do you think restaurants should manage social media and the occasional bad rating?

When it comes to managing social media and the occasional bad rating, restaurants should understand that social media can be a valuable source of inspiration for chefs in a number of ways, such as keeping up with food trends, networking with other chefs, connecting with customers, learning from other cultures, and showcasing their own creations. Chefs have always relied on their vast collections of cookbooks as a source of inspiration, flipping through the pages for both direct and indirect ideas. But with the advent of social media, it’s now effortless for them to watch videos and learn specific techniques used by chefs across the globe, whether it be from Japan or Peru.

In the past, food criticism was often limited to a select group of professional critics, but today, anyone can share their thoughts and opinions on a restaurant or dish. This democratization of food criticism allows for a more diverse range of perspectives and can help restaurants understand what their customers truly want.

However, there are also negative consequences of technology and social media on food criticism. The pressure on restaurants to constantly please customers is higher than ever, and it is understandable that not every dish will please every palate.

It is important for customers to remember the hard work and dedication that goes into creating a meal. Chefs and their teams put a lot of effort into sourcing high-quality ingredients, developing unique recipes and techniques, and executing each dish to perfection. Instead of posting a negative review on social media, customers should consider giving direct feedback to the chef or staff while they are still at the restaurant. This allows the chef and team to address the issue and make it right for the customer, rather than potentially damaging the restaurant’s reputation with an anonymous online review. Additionally, it’s possible that there might have been a mistake made in the kitchen but posting a bad review online doesn’t give the chef and his team the opportunity to make it right.

When it comes to bad ratings, it’s important to respond professionally and empathetically. For chefs, it is essential to acknowledge a group of customer’s concerns for any negative experience they may have had. Offer to make it right, such as by offering a complimentary meal or refund. It’s also important to use the feedback to improve the restaurant’s overall service and experience.

As meatless and plant-based diets become increasingly mainstream, do you predict that more chefs will focus on vegetarian and vegan cuisine?

As meatless and plant-based diets become increasingly mainstream, it is likely that more chefs will focus on vegetarian and vegan cuisine.

Chefs and restaurateurs often need to adapt to the dietary needs and preferences of their customers, and this can include offering more vegetarian, vegan, and other options to accommodate different dietary restrictions and lifestyles. Additionally, they may also need to keep up with food trends and popular dishes to attract customers and stay competitive in the industry.

The public is more informed and knowledgeable about food, ingredients, and how dishes are prepared. Chef Jose Garces stated that “being constantly challenged and succeeding” is part of the enjoyment of the industry; however, it also comes with new obstacles. Customers’ needs are constantly changing with trends.

The millennial generation, who started the “foodie lifestyle” with a strong focus on craftsmanship and fresh and local ingredients, has put pressure on food businesses to produce new items and experiment with new dishes to keep menus appealing. Generation Z, the most ethnically diverse generation in US history, has been more exposed to health and wellness education than any other generation. They are looking for natural and organic ingredients with no additives, and products that have a strong connection to sustainability. This means that menus need to reflect healthier choices, allowing more health-oriented substitutions.

Young consumers are taking note of how food businesses use waste, and are putting pressure on menus to have world flavor options. Zero food waste is another great challenge for innovation. Plant-based food is here to stay as more and more people are adopting the flexitarian diet.

Chefs have great opportunities to make plant-based food more desirable. By using creativity and great techniques, vegetables can be incredible heroes on the plate. In fact, some of the techniques for bringing up flavors when cooking vegetables are very similar to the ones used for cooking meat. This presents an opportunity for chefs to showcase their skills and expertise in creating delicious and sustainable dishes. As customers continue to prioritize health and sustainability, it is likely that we will see an increase in the number of chefs focusing on vegetarian and vegan cuisine.

You note how that, as of 2020, only twenty-five percent of chefs were women. The book also includes Chef Kim Alter’s experiences in opening her own restaurant—some potential investors expressed concern that she might be too “emotional” as a woman to run a restaurant, and she recounts being bullied by the project’s construction crew. It even became necessary for her to bring in her male partner, just as a visible masculine presence, so that she could be taken seriously. Are things improving for female chefs?

The culinary industry has been male-dominated. However, there have been efforts to increase representation and support for women in the industry in recent years, such as through mentorship programs and industry initiatives, such as the Edward Lee’s nonprofit, called the LEE Initiative, where they take young female chefs who are in the early part of their career and give them training. I do not have access to recent data, so it is difficult to say.

The participation of women chefs like Elizabeth Falkner, Tiffany Derry, and Nyesha Arrington in cooking competition TV shows helps to break the stereotype of a male-dominated industry and showcase the talents and skills of female chefs. It also helps to promote diversity and inclusivity.

In the wonderful chapter, “The Kitchen as a Metaphor for Life,” you list basic principles for success in a restaurant kitchen, such as develop a thick skin, stay focused, understand the business, and to definitely “lose the ego!” You also note the need for hard work and passion, and recommend taking an occasional “culinary adventure.” How can a well-planned yet still adventurous culinary excursion keep both novice and experienced chefs from burning out?

A well-planned culinary excursion can serve as a way to refresh and rejuvenate a chef, both novice and experienced. It can provide an opportunity to learn new techniques and flavors, as well as gain inspiration for new dishes and menus. By stepping outside of their usual routine, chefs can return to their kitchen with renewed energy and a fresh perspective. Moreover, culinary excursions can be a great leadership tool that fosters collaboration between team members and facilitates open communication.

In Conversations Behind The Kitchen Door, I offer a series of travel tips for organizing tasting tours in the chapter “The Flavor-Memory Database,” which can be a great resource to help chefs plan their own culinary excursions.

One way to plan an adventurous culinary excursion would be to research specific cuisines and regions, and then visit restaurants, bars, food halls, and food storers that specialize in that style of cooking. Additionally, team members can work together to plan the excursion, allowing them to bond over shared interests and goals.

The ideal option would be to travel to a new location and experience the local food culture firsthand. This can be a great way to learn about new ingredients and techniques, as well as gain a deeper understanding of the local food culture.

A well-planned tour is critical to avoid burnout. This can be achieved by setting realistic goals, being mindful of budget, and taking time to relax and enjoy the experience. In addition, it is also important to not lose sight of the main goal of the excursion, which is to gain inspiration and knowledge. If you’re a foodie or a chef looking to put together a tasting tour in most of the major cities across the US, feel free to contact me and I will be more than happy to help you out.

Even amid the culinary adventure of your own life (traveling, interviewing, pursuing new tastes), is there one special meal or food that you love to cook and/or eat regularly?

My one special meal or food that I love to eat regularly is sushi. Sushi is my go-to food for lunch when I’m working. I can have sushi three times a week. However, when I’m dining at a restaurant, my preference goes to dishes based on scallops, foie gras, or duck.

I am particularly fond of fish and seafood. I try to make a scallop ceviche at least once a week, and my recent trip to Peru has been a source of inspiration for me to create some variations in the ingredients used for the ceviche. I also regularly cook mussels, with all kinds of preparation and ingredients, based on what I have in my fridge. Additionally, I am a big fan of quiches. I learned to make Lorraine Quiche from scratch with my mother, in France, when I was about seven years old.

Meg Nola
February 24, 2023

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