The Exile's Cookbook
Medieval Gastronomic Treasures from al-Andalus and North Africa
The Exile’s Cookbook, Daniel L. Newman’s translation of Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī’s medieval gastronomic tome, is part history text, part cookbook. Featuring a lengthy introduction, it includes the contextual history behind its recipes alongside a brief biography of al-Tujībī and an extended explanation of the food that al-Tujībī (a gourmand as well as a keen amateur cook) wrote about: Andalusian cuisine shared by a diverse, multicultural group made up of Iberian Muslims, Jews, and Christians.
While not all the recipes can be feasibly reproduced (some require the use of whole animals, or use bygone cooking methods) others would make delightful additions to any dinner, as with the book’s six easy variations of mujabbanas (fried cheese buns). For more adventurous cooks, recipes for dishes like mirqās sausages present a challenge; it requires beating meat into a paste, kneading, and a complex stuffing process. Be forewarned that there is little offered in the way of exact measurements. Al-Tujībī often advises his audience to use their own judgement, with phrases like “remember this, and do as you please” punctuating recipes.
With its fascinating, detailed descriptions of medieval dishes, The Exile’s Cookbook is a perfect addition to serious cookbook collections.
Reviewed by
Eric Patterson
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